Sorry to be so late, but this post turned out so long that I had to split it into two!
Today we'll be installing the zipper and assembling the body of the hoodie. Then tomorrow we'll attach the hood.
If you've just joined us, please start here to view the series in it's entirety.
Some of you might notice right away that my fabric pieces don't match the patterns we drafted on Monday, and you'd be right. In order to make my final pattern more "assembly line" friendly I have adjusted the style to a raglan sleeve. It doesn't affect the zipper installation, but it definitely helps me to only have to sew straight lines when I'm making multiple custom orders for my shop.
Unfortunately, this change means that I had to skip the steps for sewing the shoulders, sleeves, and side seams. I'm sure most of you will understand the written directions if you have ever sewn a basic shirt or dress before, but if anyone has trouble following because of the lack of pictures, please just let me know and I will find a way to add more images in a week or so. (Still in time for Halloween, I promise!)
Today you'll need:
Your front, back, and sleeve pieces - measuring tape - pins - pen - zipper foot
separating zipper (I use this 20" long #5 molded plastic one and trim off the excess.)
Measure up 1" from the bottom of your shirt fronts and lay out the halves of your zipper along the center line.
(If you added a larger or smaller hem allowance when drafting your pattern, substitute it for the 1" here.)
Mark where the zipper crosses the top edge of the fabric.
Then zip the halves back together and extend the line across.
This will help keep both sides even while you are sewing.
Unzip the halves again and pin them in place (still 1" up) with the teeth pointing away from the center.
Be very careful not to stretch the fabric as you pin, and check that the marks match up with the top edges.
Using your zipper foot, sew a line of stitches close to the zipper teeth.
(not too close that you can't work the zipper!)
Fold the zipper tape under so that the teeth are pointing to the center, and add another row of stitches 1/4" from the teeth.
It needs to be close enough to catch the tape underneath.
Test your zipper to make sure it slides easily and also matches up evenly at the top.
Now you can assemble the remaining pieces of the shirt.
With right sides together stitch the shoulder seams, side seams, and attach the sleeves.
Both will work equally well, and these link should help until I can add the necessary pictures.
Fold the ends of your sleeves, and the bottom of the shirt under 1". Pin in place and hem.
I feel terrible about that picture gap. I hope it doesn't throw anyone off, but if you have any questions don't hesitate
to send me a message. That was definitely a slip-up, and I'll happily help you get everything straightened out.
Tomorrow the hood!
And I promise I've got all the proper pictures!